Triple Crown

Discuss IOM design, building an IOM, information on suppliers, tuning an IOM, results of recent events, etc

Moderator: Pedro Egea

Roger Bowtle
Posts: 3
Joined: 26 Nov 2003, 23:32
Location: GBR 1858

Triple Crown

Post by Roger Bowtle » 06 May 2005, 00:02

Hi All can anybody help with my problem the plan and details of this great design i have pondered as i seem to have differing measurments for the centreline of the mast to the front edge of the keel could anyone help
Jolly R

cfwahl
Posts: 79
Joined: 23 Nov 2003, 23:01
Location: CAN 62

Post by cfwahl » 06 May 2005, 03:08

I haven't built one, but the latest drawing I downloaded is dated April 2004. Starting from the bow on the side elevation, there's a 13 mm bumper, then 494 mm to the center of mast, then 20 mm to the leading edge of the keel blade. It has a big note pointing to the 20 mm dimension saying "important change". The plan looks like it has the mast centered on a station line, and the difference in dimension would be only 1 mm. The older drawings I have (from 2002) had hand-lettering for the stations, the one I've referenced has everything on side elevation and plan in computer fonts.

Best of all would be to discuss this with someone who actually sails one!
Charles Wahl

Gyula
Posts: 41
Joined: 31 Dec 2004, 18:45
Sail number: ROU 52
Design: Ska
Location: Transylvania
Contact:

Post by Gyula » 06 May 2005, 17:29

I have built my Triple Crown according to the initial drawing that says 27mm distance between mast center line and keel front edge, and the boat had a lot of lee helm in light winds, even with the mast raked backwards to the limit. I moved the keel forward and it solved the problem. Then I saw the new drawing with 20mm instead of 27mm, so indeed this is the correct measurement.

Regards
Gyula

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Post by Graham_Snook » 07 May 2005, 17:43

I built my triple crown to the recent plans and there is 20mm from the leading edge of my fin to the centre of my mast, and she sails very well. In a blow she goes like a bomb and will beat hands free with ease.

If you can invest in the plans from the MYA there are a lot of good hints and tips for building the design...although I did rearrange the internal weight to make room for my sail arm :)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

edmorales

Post by edmorales » 08 May 2005, 06:44

TC FANS,
this site http://navi.modelisme.com/article222.html shows how to build a TC with a skiff type deck. very slick.
ed

User avatar
Olivier Cohen
IOMICA Chairman
Posts: 436
Joined: 02 Dec 2004, 17:11
Sail number: FRA 100
Design: Venti
Location: Nantes / France
France

Post by Olivier Cohen » 08 May 2005, 23:50

Graham,

I use one which doesn't go straight at all with wind!

Could you show a picture of your fin, and maybe give me the rack of your mast, measured from nose of boat to jibstay attachment?

Thanks.
IOMICA Chairman

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Fins and stuff

Post by Graham_Snook » 09 May 2005, 12:46

I built her as the plans and measurements from the MYA.

I sent off a cheque and got all the full information pack I needed, with measurements of the jib points, (tack and sheet position) as well as internal frame positions and deck layout (well worth the money)...I have given her a raised foredeck and a flush after deck. The design shows a dished area to lower the vang and the COG, but a member of my local club said it acted as a funnel and filled the boat up with water! I made the mast and fin box out of areoply and epoxied it to the deck so no water should get in.

The fin, bulb and rudder came from Barry Chisam - ISIS - down in Penryn, Cornwall

I'll take a pic of the keel and deck and get them on here soon

Here's a sailing pic
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=3347599
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

Ralph Knowles
Posts: 35
Joined: 23 Nov 2003, 22:51
Location: Dundee, Scotland, GBR1876/ GBR 2182/GBR 2167/GBR 1907/GBR 3367
Contact:

TC

Post by Ralph Knowles » 09 May 2005, 23:58

Hi Snooks,

You've built a bonny fair hull. You should be proud of it. Looking forward to a few more pictures of it both in and out of the water?

Well done.

Ralph

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

More Pix

Post by Graham_Snook » 10 May 2005, 12:40

Here are some more pix of the building process:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/72572297@N ... 1928/show/

From the bow to the front of my mast (11mm OD I think) is 489mm
The Jib tack point for my A rig is 185mm from the bow

Both measurements are with out the bumper and I'll try to get some out of the water shots soon

For all the measurement go for "option 2" from:
http://www.mya-uk.org.uk/suppliers/triplecrown.html

I hope that helps :)

Since building my Triple Crown, others have come out of the wood work so I now have two others to race against...But mine is the only one with a sail arm and CF appendages which does help a lot, and could explain my beginners success :wink:
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

User avatar
Olivier Cohen
IOMICA Chairman
Posts: 436
Joined: 02 Dec 2004, 17:11
Sail number: FRA 100
Design: Venti
Location: Nantes / France
France

Re: More Pix

Post by Olivier Cohen » 11 May 2005, 09:24

Graham_Snook wrote:From the bow to the front of my mast (11mm OD I think) is 489mm
The Jib tack point for my A rig is 185mm from the bow

:wink:
Mine is 486 and 165, so it can't explain my weather helm. Could you please let me see a picture of your fin?
IOMICA Chairman

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Pics

Post by Graham_Snook » 11 May 2005, 17:39

Here's a pic of the appendages and a dummy mast so you can see the angle of dangle:

http://photos10.flickr.com/13422843_756b2bab38_o.jpg

From the pic I've managed to measure the bulb cant as 2.7º and the rake of the mast at 2º, but don't take my word for it...measure it for yourself :D

I also have premast bend, so when is all tight it should straighten up and give me plenty of forestay tension.

Hope that helps

G
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

User avatar
Olivier Cohen
IOMICA Chairman
Posts: 436
Joined: 02 Dec 2004, 17:11
Sail number: FRA 100
Design: Venti
Location: Nantes / France
France

Post by Olivier Cohen » 12 May 2005, 09:10

Thanks.
IOMICA Chairman

Signatus
Posts: 21
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 15:32
Location: POR (Building an TripleCrown)
Contact:

Wood Thikness and... Congratulations!!!!

Post by Signatus » 13 May 2005, 15:04

Hi Graham!!!

I'm starting to build my TripleCrown :) and i'm following your photos has reference.

Can you tell me please what thikness is the wood plates that you have used on your boat!?

And... Congratulations!!!! The boat is beutifull!!!
Please post as much photos as possible. I'm studying them in detail :)

People from MYA didn't answer my email... i've request if they send or not a copy of the Triple Crown Plans... no answer 'till now...
All i've got is photos on the internet.... :(


Thanks!!!

--------------
Signatus
--------------

Ralph Knowles
Posts: 35
Joined: 23 Nov 2003, 22:51
Location: Dundee, Scotland, GBR1876/ GBR 2182/GBR 2167/GBR 1907/GBR 3367
Contact:

Post by Ralph Knowles » 14 May 2005, 00:07

Hi Signatus,

You may not be aware that th MYA is run by amature volunteers, it is not a business, but a country wide 'club'. Funds are not available to send out plans etc. to all who request them. My advice is to send an self-addressed envelope with your request, along with a bank cheque, or possibly paper money to include the cost of postage to the publicity officer Mr. Hobbs whose address can be found on the MYA web site.

Cheers

Ralph

Signatus
Posts: 21
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 15:32
Location: POR (Building an TripleCrown)
Contact:

TripleCrown Plans

Post by Signatus » 14 May 2005, 13:07

Hello Ralph!!!

I wasn't aware of that!!! Thanks :)
If i send the money i'll recieve the Plans!??

I live in Lisboa, Portugal. They send me the drawings here!? How much the cost will change!??
That where my questions on the email i've sent... i don't mind sending the money by mail... but how much!? :(
How long could it take for me to recieve the drawings!???

P.S - Sorry if my english is kind'a "rusty" :lol:

Ralph Knowles
Posts: 35
Joined: 23 Nov 2003, 22:51
Location: Dundee, Scotland, GBR1876/ GBR 2182/GBR 2167/GBR 1907/GBR 3367
Contact:

TC Plans

Post by Ralph Knowles » 15 May 2005, 03:14

Hi Signatus,

I would think a £5 note or maybe 8 Euros should cover it.

Cheers

Ralph

mark dicks
Posts: 4
Joined: 27 Nov 2003, 09:19

Post by mark dicks » 16 May 2005, 09:33

Graham snook wrote "The design shows a dished area to lower the vang and the COG, but a member of my local club said it acted as a funnel and filled the boat up with water". Graham, i am also a member of clapham model yacht club and the designer of this IOM, this is not actually correct. the reason for lowering the rig is to be able to hold onto number 1 rig a lot longer.
my boat has as dished area and it does not fill up with water.

mark dicks
Posts: 4
Joined: 27 Nov 2003, 09:19

Post by mark dicks » 16 May 2005, 09:38

Signatus,
its good to see another t.c. being built,if you need any help you can contact me through either this post or my personal e-mail address is markdicks66@blueyonder.co.uk.

Signatus
Posts: 21
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 15:32
Location: POR (Building an TripleCrown)
Contact:

Post by Signatus » 16 May 2005, 12:07

Hello Mark!!!

Thanks for your help :)

Please help me in this: i'm thinking on using 5mm wood (that light and soft wood that is used in scale models... i don't know the name in english :( is the same that Graham used in his boat...)

Is it to thick to be used!??? I think Graham used 2mm plates... but is it "strongh enough"???

When you are working the wood to make her soft and round... isn't 2mm to "thin"???

I'm thinking of using the wood as a structure of the boat... no shadown on the inside... can it be done!??? :shock:

Cheers!!! :)

P.S - I'll use this Blog http://signatus-iom.blogspot.com to show the progress and some other stuff about IOM :)

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Post by Graham_Snook » 16 May 2005, 13:06

My Triple Crown was planked with 1/8th (approx 3mm) Balsa, sanded then coated with 2 x layers of .9oz cloth and sanded back between layers...unfortunately due to a bit of over active sanding back, the glass gets a bit thin in places!!

I've also noticed a puncture in the glass, so I'm going to coat the hull in 1.8oz cloth to give her a bit more strength, then take out some of the 280g of ballast from the hull to get me back to 4KG and hopefully a stronger boat.

If hindsight was foresight I'd have used 1.8oz glass from the start. But because it was my first hull I didn't know what weight she would come it at...and while it's good to have ballast down low, it's no good if your boat sinks on the first port-starboard!! :)

5mm planking might be too thick, even with the 1/8th planking I was finding it difficult to plank the flared bow near the deck and the fine entry at the forefoot...By the time you gain experience of planking it's too late to start again, so just take your time from the start

All the best

G
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

Signatus
Posts: 21
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 15:32
Location: POR (Building an TripleCrown)
Contact:

Post by Signatus » 16 May 2005, 16:43

Graham_Snook wrote:I've also noticed a puncture in the glass, so I'm going to coat the hull in 1.8oz cloth to give her a bit more strength, then take out some of the 280g of ballast from the hull to get me back to 4KG and hopefully a stronger boat.
Hello Graham!!!
Thanks for your help :)

Tell me please: does your boat have any internal / structural wood shadows!? Or is it just the exterior "planking" that structures your T.Crown???

Thanks again!!!
Signatus

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Internal Structure

Post by Graham_Snook » 16 May 2005, 17:31

Forward of the mast is just as the plans for the Triple Crown plans show, 3 beams/liteply shapes to support the foredeck, jib tack and sheet positions.

Aft of the mast is a bit of my own creation although I used the plans for the fin box, but all I did was follow the tips that you also get with the plans and then adapted them to suit the layout of my boat.

I have liteply going across to support the deck and keep the fin box in place, this structure is attached to the beams that hold my sail arm and main sheet post in position, which is attached to the pot with the radio gear which is attached to the stearing servo at the back. So all of these are connected and were secured at the same time. Hopefully making it nice and strong.

I used the width of the shadows (taken from the plans) to make the deck beams, so the hull should be as she was intended.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

Signatus
Posts: 21
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 15:32
Location: POR (Building an TripleCrown)
Contact:

Post by Signatus » 17 May 2005, 10:28

Thanks again for your help Graham :)

Where did you get the mast, sails and the rest of the rig!? You've build them or bought them!?

Thanks again,
Signatus

Graham_Snook
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 Jan 2005, 23:27
Location: GBR 2586
Contact:

Sails and Rig

Post by Graham_Snook » 17 May 2005, 12:28

My sails came from Housemartin (£34 at the time) I went for the cheap - economy option because it was my first build and didn't want to ruin a "good" set of sails while I learnt to sail from the shore. The sails have good shape to them, and for the racing we do at the club they are fine and well worth the money.

Rig wise I went for the A rig kit from Sailsetc. with both jib and main boom drilled and fitted out. (btw the booms are like a work of art) I also went for the mast being drilled, marked and pre-bend added...Drilled because my kitchen isn't fitted with a pillar drill. Marked, because I didn't fully understand the rules, and pre bent because I didn't know how much or how little:)

The rig kit was simple to assemble and I spent money with Sailetc so that I could take it from boat to boat if I needed to in the future. They aren't cheap, but they are very good.

I picked up the rig from sailsetc, so just waited until my work took me in their direction before collecting it and all the fittings I thought I needed...although I did have to place another order because I forgot a few bits and bobs....DOH

A bit of advice that might come in handy...order the rc gear/sails/rig before you finish the hull...I didn't, and had to wait for it to come into stock or be delivered...and I couldn't fit out the interior until I knew where the equipment was going to go and the size of it all.

The waiting time with some sail makers is 4 - 6 weeks, this was another reason for choosing Housemartin, they came within a week.

All in all the hull took about a month to complete, then another 2 months waiting for the equipment and fitting her out. I started building on 15th Nov 04 and she went on the water on 6th Feb 05

Hope that help a bit more
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Graham Snook
[url=http://grahamsnook.wordpress.com/]My website[/url]
[url=http://cmyc.wordpress.com/]Clapham MYC website[/url]

Gyula
Posts: 41
Joined: 31 Dec 2004, 18:45
Sail number: ROU 52
Design: Ska
Location: Transylvania
Contact:

Post by Gyula » 07 Feb 2006, 10:14

I have built my first Triple Crown of pink foam, as in Naviga we can do it. photo
It is light (we have no weight limit), it is fast, but it is ugly :evil: , so I started a to build a new, wooden boat, and this will be built acording to the IOM rules.
Here are some pictures.
Fin and rudder are from Dave Creed, and sails well be from Housemartin.
Gyula Ferencz

Steve Landeau
Posts: 256
Joined: 26 Nov 2003, 07:25
Location: USA 12

Post by Steve Landeau » 07 Feb 2006, 17:16

Beautiful work, it makes me want to build a wooden boat.
keep us posted on your progress! :)
Steve Landeau
AMYA 10859
IOM USA 112
Finn USA 112
Cal 25 #548

Robert H
Posts: 23
Joined: 21 Oct 2005, 17:21
Location: USA

Post by Robert H » 09 Feb 2006, 08:31

Gyula, great looking hull. I really like the light and dark wood together. What wood did you use?
I am just finishing up mine. I used western red cedar.
Does anyone know what purpose the flair on the top of the first three sections serve. It looks good but is there a practical reason for it?
Thanks, Rob
Robert Harik

Gyula
Posts: 41
Joined: 31 Dec 2004, 18:45
Sail number: ROU 52
Design: Ska
Location: Transylvania
Contact:

Post by Gyula » 09 Feb 2006, 09:01

I used red cedar too combined with lime.
what purpose the flair on the top of the first three sections
I think it is against nose diving.
Gyula Ferencz

Robert H
Posts: 23
Joined: 21 Oct 2005, 17:21
Location: USA

Post by Robert H » 11 Feb 2006, 07:06

Gyula, In your pictures the shear at the stern looks like its straight back from 9-10, instead of dropping down, or is it just my bad eyes? Did you use the flair in the bow or not? The hardest part of the whole hull (for me anyway) was the first few planks, dealing with the bow flair and the stern dropping. I am going to build one for a friend and I think I will leave both those features out. Thanks ,Rob
Robert Harik

Gyula
Posts: 41
Joined: 31 Dec 2004, 18:45
Sail number: ROU 52
Design: Ska
Location: Transylvania
Contact:

Post by Gyula » 11 Feb 2006, 07:30

the shear at the stern looks like its straight back from 9-10
Yes, it is now, but I will cut it later.
Did you use the flair in the bow
Of course :) I used there some narrower planks. They are of different color, so one could think it's just for looking good.
Gyula Ferencz

Post Reply